WHERE OC Interview: Edouard Vicqueneau

Edouard Vicqueneau, proprietor of Le Bon Goûter in Irvine, makes artisan ice creams, sorbets, frozen custards and macarons. Vicqueneau, 50, is a third-generation chef; born in Versailles, France, he came to the United States about 20 years ago. One of his two sons, Mathieu, 19, assists him part time. Vicqueneau creates his own bases, using fresh milk, cream and butter from free-roam, naturally fed cattle on a family-owned and -operated farm; he uses no powdered bases, preservatives, artificial colors or artificial flavors. Flavors vary with the season, and he constantly experiments with new ones. Restaurant clients include superb Bluefin in Newport Coast and Lucca Cafe in Irvine. The operation, tucked away in a business park near the 405 freeway and MacArthur Boulevard, is open to the public for gallon purchases.

How did you get into ice cream?
My grandmother was a chef, my father was a chef; I was born kind of in the kitchen. I opened a business in Paris in 1984: ice cream and pastries. I had always wanted to do customized flavors according to the season and fresh from the farm. My ice cream is frozen custard, really; the sorbets are basically fruit and sugar. And very flavorful.

So you knew from the start you wanted to make ice cream?
Actually, I boxed, for seven years, a long time ago. I made the championship finals. I only stopped because I couldn’t do both—both demanded so much. I decided there was more of a future in pastry than in boxing.

How long does it take to make a single batch of ice cream?
Three-quarters of a day. But I can do four flavors in a day and it doesn’t take much longer. We do about 1,000 liters a week.

What are some of the flavors?
We are the only ones I know of to do a bergamot ice cream—bergamot is a fruit from Italy. The creamy texture of that ice cream, the very flavorful citrus … very refreshing ice cream. We do caramelized honey and a fresh spearmint. We make a vanilla with vanilla beans from the island of Taha’a in French Polynesia—100% beans, no extract. We do blackberry cabernet sorbet, lychee sorbet. Mango black peppercorn is popular.

Where do you go for dessert?
I like Marché Moderne at South Coast Plaza. Definitely a good taste for dessert. As a pastry chef, I appreciate the viennoiseries at C’est Si Bon in Newport Beach—the crossiant and chocolate croissant are the best around here. There is a pastry shop, Cafe Blanc, on 17th Street in Costa Mesa. They do individual cakes and mousses. I like that you can see the kitchen.

And for the rest of the meal?
One of my favorite places to hang and have a drink is at Corona del Mar Plaza, Tommy Bahama’s Island Grille. The plat du jour might be a nice piece of meat on the grill or beautiful fresh fish. I love the atmosphere at Habana, at The Lab—the mojitos, the hors d’oeuvres, the halibut. The waffles at Brussels Bistro in Laguna Beach are amazing—and mussels frites. Around here, Lucca Cafe. It is one of my big carriers, yes, but dozens of restaurants carry my ice cream. I like Lucca because it is all natural, all made from scratch, on the same level as my product and in the same spirit.

Who are your other clients?
A lot of Asian restaurants in Irvine—Mizuki and Phans55 carry my ice cream, sorbets and macarons. Bluefin in Newport Coast. We also do custom flavors for individuals.

Where do you shop?
Irvine Spectrum Center. A lot of stores, a little bit of everything.

How would you spend an absolutely free weekend?
We’d sail to Catalina. If we had visitors, one of my favorite parts of the county is Coast Highway. We’d go to Pelican Grill—I used to work at Pelican Hill. And to Laguna Beach, of course.

Orange County Guide

Le Bon Goûter 17795 Sky Park Circle, Suite K, Irvine, 949.289.7796/ Bluefin Crystal Cove Promenade, 7952 E. Coast Hwy., Newport Coast, 949.715.7373 / Brussels Bistro 222 Forest Ave., Laguna Beach, 949.376.7955 / Cafe Blanc 298 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, 949.631.9999 / C’est Si Bon Bakery 149 Riverside Ave., Newport Beach, 949.645.0447 / Habana 2930 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714.556.0176 , Irvine Spectrum Center 71 Fortune Drive, Irvine, 949.753.5180 / Lucca Cafe 6507 Quail Hill Parkway, Irvine, 949.725.1773 / Marché Moderne South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 714.434.7900/Mizuki 2981 Michelson Drive, Irvine, 949.251.0555 / Pelican Grill 22800 Pelican Hill Road, Newport Coast, 949.467.6800 / Phans55 6000 Scholarship Drive, Irvine, 949.724.1236 / Tommy Bahama’s Island Grille 854 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach, 949.760.8686